Hotel Namaskar ($12/night) synopsis: I had to urinate in the middle of the night and was forced to dance to keep the tiny bathroom roaches from climbing my legs. Alternately, Heather kept the light off while she peed; smart. In and out of sleep the rest of the night, I admired the highly metered and continuous stutter-step of what I thought was a large cow walking back and forth past our window (Heather thought it was the faucet dripping loudly). Turns out it was just our ceiling fan knocking romantically against its housing.
Obviously, it is insanely hot here. Less obviously, we watched petite and gorgeous urban eagles fly and preen themselves from our Nepali rooftop breakfast cafe.
Overheard in a miniscule subterranean cafe this afternoon: "Paharganj is the shithole of Delhi." Yep, but we really like it.
